Used car buying guide: MG Midget

In 1974, the US insisted on a raft of safety and emissions-led changes that resulted in the Midget getting big rubber bumpers and a cleaner 1.5 Triumph engine mated to a Morris Marina gearbox with full synchromesh. The square wheel arches made a comeback because safety officials considered them to be stronger. 

When it comes to a Midget, condition is king and corrosion the enemy within. Yes, you can get new panels and even shells, but they aren’t cheap and they’ll require painting. In fact, one expert we spoke to has stopped dealing in cars that require body work, it’s that expensive. On the other hand, he’ll take any number of mechanical issues on the chin. 

So, look hard, believe no one and avoid rust like the plague, and you should get the Midget of your dreams.

How to get one in your garage

An expert’s view 

Mike Authers, founder, mgmidgets.com: “Midgets are little but that’s what makes them so much fun. The handling is great but safe, too. But it’s getting harder to find good ones. Not so long ago I’d have a dozen in stock, but at the moment I’m down to one. It’s a fully restored, former Downton Engineering 1971 1275cc Midget for £19,450. Body condition is everything; you can always replace mechanical parts easily, but beware of cheap, poor-quality copies. My favourite is a late-1960s 1275 with chrome bumpers and wire wheels.” 

Buyer beware… 

â–  Engine: On A-series 948cc, 1098cc and 1275cc engines, check the oil pressure and for signs of oil smoke and fumes. The 1275cc engine is popular with DIY tuners so look for signs of ham-fisted tweakery. A leaky head gasket, worn valve stem seals and noisy tappets are other issues to look out for. The later 1.5 engine had weak crankshaft journals so listen for rumblings below. 

â–  Transmission: Expect straight-cut first and reverse gears to whine, but you may need an expert to help you distinguish that from noisy bearings. On the remaining gears, feel for worn synchros. Listen for a noisy rear differential. 

â–  Steering, suspension and brakes: Don’t put up with suspension and steering that feels loose and bouncy. Common issues are worn or corroded kingpins, leaky dampers, rusty leaf spring hangers and broken springs. Check the lubrication points have fresh grease on them. Seized pistons, scored and worn discs, leaking brake hoses and corroded cables are common. 

â–  Body: Use a magnet to tell filler from steel, and a screwdriver to tell rust from paint. Sills, A-posts, doors and wheel arches rust badly. Roofless, wet-weather motoring will soak carpets and cause floors to rust. Don’t ignore the boot floor, especially where it meets the rear upright panel. The rear spring hangers corrode badly, too.

â–  Interior: Check for torn vinyl, rotten wood trim, mouldy carpets and broken switches. However, compared with fixing bodywork, these are minor issues. 

Also worth knowing 

Most cars over 40 years old are now exempt from the MOT test. Only ‘most’ because if a car has been substantially changed, it must still be tested. As it’s a safety test, have any Midget you’re considering buying MOT’d anyway. 

How much to spend 

£500-£1999: From project cars to runners. 

£2000-£5499: Small selection of tidier Midgets including a 1967 1275 and a 1977 big-bumper 1.5 with 60k miles for £3600. 

£5500-£8999: Solid runners including a 1980 big-bumper 1.5 with 97k miles for £5999 and a restored 1973 1275 with 43k miles for £8750. 

£9000-£12,999: Includes a restored 1971 1275 with 106,000 miles for £9950. 

£13,000 and above: Rare specials including a mint, 900-mile 1980 1.5 for £14,995, and a Downton Engineering modified 1971 1275 with 48k for £19,450.