Used car buying guide: Citroen XM

A good compromise, if you can find one, is a so-called Series 1.5 example from 1992 or 1993, which will offer the added refinement of a fully facelifted car but without the more conservative styling.

The XM followed its DS and CX predecessors in pairing a low-slung, swooping shape with inimitable comfort but thankfully has yet to emulate their astonishing surge in values. You can still buy a running, driving example of this Bertone-designed beast for around £1500 – although it will need a good deal more care and attention than most future classics in this price bracket.

Rust is a huge issue, and the electrics won’t give you an easy ride, either. Go in prepared, though, and you could nab one of the most comfortable cars of all time for pennies. How’s that for a spirit-lifter?

How to get one in your garage

An owner’s view: Paul Breeze-Roberts

“The XM got a reputation for electrical unreliability because Citroën trialled plug-in earths, even in the engine bay, which corroded so lost decent earth. The fix? Cut off the plugs, fit good ring earths and bolt them in place of the plug in the inner wings.

It’s a common misconception that the XM wasn’t galvanised; it was double-zinc-coated, and a weakness in that process lets water in past the zinc coats. You only need a pinhole… I’ve had an XM whose underseal was still shaped perfectly, but there was no metal behind it all.”

Buyer beware…

Engine

The 2.1-litre diesel is by far the most readily available option. It’s a hardy lump, but you will be frustrated by the lethargy of the naturally aspirated version. Cars with the 2.0-litre CT (constant torque) turbo petrol are thirsty and not very fast so sell cheap, while the big money goes on the rare 3.0-litre V6. Check for signs of head gasket failure on diesels, for blue smoke from turbo engines and that the cambelt is serviceable in all cases.

Suspension

Push hard on each corner of the car; it should feel far softer and floatier than anything you’re used to. The ‘liquide hydraulique minérale’ should be bright green, not khaki, and changed every 30,000 miles. If the XM’s waftiness seems to have dissipated, check for a difference between the Normal and Sport modes. If it rides hard over uneven ground regardless, it’s likely the nitrogen spheres need replacing – but they cost only £25 and XM forums are full of advice on the procedure.

Electrics

Rear bulb failure warnings are common but not always accurate. If the light is still working, clean the contacts with an emery cloth, replace the earth wire and check the capacitors in the glovebox haven’t failed. You can fix dead or faded pixels in the LCD screen by replacing the ribbon cable behind. Slightly trickier to rectify are failing window regulators as a result of moisture in the system, but parts are readily available and none too costly.

Bodywork

Water can penetrate the body’s zinc coating and rust it from the inside out. Check the strut tops, sills, boot floor, inner wings, door skins and bumper brackets for an early indication of integrity but delve deeper to be sure. Underseal can also be compromised, so check with a torch and screwdriver. It’s wise to budget for some welding and underseal in any case. The plastic nose can crack around the headlights.

Also worth knowing

The XM’s reputation for electrical fragility is largely due to the earth points in the engine bay of early cars, which tended to corrode. They were replaced later with more resilient ring connectors; most surviving XMs have had this change made, but make sure.

How much to spend

£500-£999: Projects, often Series 2 and wanting scary-sounding hydropneumatic work.

£1000-£1999: Phase 2 daily-drivers, mostly estates with the naturally aspirated diesel unit.

£2000-£2999: Solid examples in good mechanical health with tip-top suspension.

£3000 and above: Cleanest Phase 1 and 1.5 cars, the best of which are usually on the Continent.

One we found