Used car buying guide: Ferrari 360

The Spider’s folding roof is operated by powerful rams that can spring fluid leaks, so pause the roof halfway through its cycle and inspect the ram seals. There is a smart fix (visit ferrarichat.com), otherwise you’re looking at thousands to fix it.

Power windows and leather trim were standard. Desirable options were xenon lights (aftermarket ones don’t have washers), carbonfibre seats and Challenge rear grille. If Ferrari wing shields are fitted, they should be recessed; aftermarket ones sit proud. Must-haves are a fully stamped service book and the original Ferrari toolkit (a replacement costs £800). All present? Then get that garage spruced up.

How to get one in your garage: 

An expert’s view:

SCOTT CHIVERS, SELF- TAUGHT FERRARI MECHANIC: “A 360 Modena F1 has been my daily driver for almost nine years. Using salvaged parts, I converted it to a Challenge Stradale: carbonfibre brakes, extra power, 100kg weight reduction, the lot. I bought the car with 21,000 miles and now it’s done 70,000 and never put a foot wrong. It’s even on the same clutch. I’ve got 355s but the 360 is a huge step forward in terms of usability and reliability. You have to drop the engine on the 355 to change the belts, but on the 360 you just remove a panel behind the seats. Some parts are expensive, though. For example, the wheel bearings are sealed in the hub, so you need new hubs – at £800 a corner.”

Buyer beware...

ENGINE - Annual servicing is essential and timing belts must be changed every three years. Check for cam cover oil seal leaks and the engine undertray for waste oil. Ensure tappet rattles go as engine warms up. Feel for hesitation possibly caused by failing ignition coils. Check for leaky intake manifold gaskets and rattly intake butterflies. Check condition of engine mounts. 

TRANSMISSION - Check gearbox mounts aren’t broken, allowing the ’box to hang and changes to crunch. On the F1, look for leaks from the hydraulic actuators and check the transmission control unit’s clutch wear record. On manuals, check for clutch slippage, a notchy change from third to second and that the linkage bush below the gearlever isn’t worn.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES - Listen for noisy front ball joints. Wiggle the steering wheel to check tie-rod end play. Check both suspension modes work. Feel for wandering due to incorrect tyre pressures or geometry.

BODY - Feel for kerb scrapes under the nose. Look for aluminium corrosion bubbling up and behind the undertrays for corrosion and damage. Look for uneven panel gaps and wheel arch damage from track days. Check for worn boot and door seals, loose door handles, foggy lenses. On Spiders, check for hood creases and tears.

INTERIOR - Check window and locking module isn’t corroded and that rubberised trim isn’t sticky. Check door cards and that the instrument cluster lights up properly.

Also worth knowing:

OE parts are often recommended but dealers and enthusiasts often turn to Hill Engineering. Its re-engineered Ferrari parts are claimed to exceed OE quality.

How much to spend:

£49,000-£59,999 - Reasonable choice of coupeÃs and Spiders with less than 50k miles and good service histories.

£60,000-£69,999 - Low-mile, one-owner cars, those with full Ferrari or respected independent dealer histories the most expensive.

£70,000-£84,999 - Mint, fully loaded cars with sub-40k mileages and watertight histories with all major work recently undertaken.

£85,000-£110,000 - Ultra-low-mileage Ferrari-approved main dealer cars, others at specialists.

£135,000 AND ABOVE - A few Challenge Stradales up to £230k.